The celebration continues as we spend some time in Italy. Italy has a different menu for Chanukah, with Italian fried chicken and a risotto with raisins. My husband has consulted for Olivetti in Ivrea, Italy and learned about these dishes there. The chicken is light and moist marinated in lemon. It is something I look forward to all year since he will only make it once a year. The recipe is at the end of this story.
When the Second Temple was destroyed and the spoils carried off to Rome, the menorah from the Temple is shown on Titus’s Arch. This connection between Italy and the destruction of the Temple is what drives today’s story, again from Tami Lehman-Wilzig’s Hanukkah Around the World. It is set in Turin, Italy, where Simon and I attended services one Shabbat. We have fond memories of being invited back to the president’s home for lunch where his wife was very apologetic that the cook could only make left-overs. It was the first risotto I had tasted and it was…divine! We think often of that Shabbat in Torino and the discussions that happened in Italian, Hebrew, English, French that went on until Havdalah.
Now the story:
“Jacopo is feeling proud. He’s eight years old and for the first time, his father, Alberto, is taking him to the synagogue on the night before Tisha B’av. ‘We’re going to read a very sad story,’ explains Padre. ‘On the ninth day of the month of Av, the First and Second Temples in Jerusalem were destroyed, but we end the reading with a feeling of hope.’ Padre pauses, then asks, ‘Do you have our candle?’ Jacopo nods, digging deep into his right pocket to make sure the candle hasn’t fallen out. Padre told him they are going to do something special with it. He can’t wait. They wind their way to the synagogue of Piazzetta Primo Levi. It is a huge building with four onion shaped domes. Padre and Jacopo go into the side entrance, making their way down a narrow, semi-circular stairwell to a small chapel, decorated in blue and gold. Padre tells him it used to be the bakery where the community makde its Passover matzah.
Padre asks Jacopo for the candle. He puts it into a small candleholder, stands it on the floor, and then lights it.
‘Jacopo, come down on the floor next to me,’ says Padre, as he sits next to the candle. By candlelight Padre reads Eicha (the Book of Lamentations) to Jacopo. ‘Now blow out the candle,’ Padre whispers when he is finished. The Padre takes the burnt candle out of its holder and carefully wraps it in silver foil. He gives it to Jacopo to put back in his pocket. ‘What happens to the candle next?’ asks a surprised Jacopo…”.
What do you think happens to the candle?
Jacopo’s father explains “Tonight we mourn the destruction of the the Holy Temple but on Hanukkah we celebrate its rededication. The candle we just used will connect the two events. Tonight it is a sad candle, but it four months’ time it will be a happy one.”
That’s hope. That is the wild hope that I wrote about earlier this week. What brings you hope?
Riso coll’Uvetta (Rice with Raisins)
4 Tbl. olive oil
I small clove garlic, finely minced
I Tbl. freshly chopped Italian parsley
11⁄2 cups shortgrain rice
1⁄2 cup dark, seedless raisins
1
⁄2 teaspoon salt
3 cups hot broth or water
Black pepper
Heat the oil in a large skillet. Add garlic, parsley, and rice. Cook over high heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until garlic begins to discolor. Add raisins and salt. Add hot broth or water, 1⁄4 cup at a time, and continue to cook, uncovered, over high heat until rice is done—about 15 minutes in all. Taste for salt and pepper and add it necessary. Serve hot or at room temperature. Serves 6.
Riso coll’Uvetta is an ancient Venetian dish prepared mainly during Chanukah. It has an interesting taste, but is not for every palate.
Simon Klein (from The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews, by Edda Servi Machlin)
Pollo Fritto per Chanuka (Fried Chicken for Chanukah)
1 small frying chicken, cut into pieces
11⁄2 tsp. salt
1⁄2 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1⁄4 tsp. nutmeg
1⁄2 tsp. garlic salt
juice of 1 lemon
o
live oil
1⁄2 cup flour
2 eggs slightly beaten
1 lemon cut in wedges
Sprinkle chicken evenly with salt, pepper, nutmeg and garlic salt. Place in a bowl with lemon juice and 2 Tbl. olive oil and set aside in refrigerator or several hours or overnight. Toss to ensure even marinating
Heat one cup of oil in large skillet or Dutch oven. Roll the chicken in flour and dip in egg. Fry in hot oil over high heat for 1 or 2 minute. Lower heat and fry for 15 minutes until pieces are golden but not brown and chicken does not juice pink. Serve with lemon wedges and risotto with raisins.
Simon Klein (from The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews)